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Five days of haute couture shows kicked off with Russian designer
Ulyana Sergeenko’s
first ever showing at Paris Fashion Week, with several of her models decked
out in fur bonnets or a fur coat.
But the highlight of the week will be German fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld’s
collection celebrating his 50 years with Fendi, which has hailed the
“longest relationship between a designer and a fashion house.”
The show on Wednesday will be entirely “haute fourrure” or couture fur. French
film icon and ardent animal rights activist Brigitte Bardot has already
registered her disapproval by writing a letter to Choupette Lagerfeld, the
designer’s pampered feline companion.
Bardot appealed to the cat — who has become famous with 48,000
Twitter followers
— to “purr in the ear” of her master and save her “furry friends”. But not
even Choupette, whose every whim is usually catered to, is likely to stop
the show going ahead.
Lagerfeld has often said that while he is very sympathetic to the
anti-fur cause,
doing away with the industry would cause a lot of people to lose their
jobs. “For me, as long as people eat meat and wear leather, I don’t
get the message,”
he told The New York Times in a recent interview, adding however that he
preferred not to think about how the animals died.
The indefatigable Lagerfeld, 81, will also be presenting his
collection for Chanel,
the fashion house that is perhaps the most synonymous with Paris’s reputation
for glamour and known for spectacular staging. In total, some 30 designers
will present the Haute Couture shows, which are
unique to the City of Light.
The designation is protected by French law and attributed exclusively by the
ministry of industry to 14 houses whose clothes are entirely made by hand and
tailored to each client.
Bolshevik chic
The Russian designer Sergeenko made her entrance into the couture club after
showing outside of the official fashion week calendar since 2012. Her
creations were the clothes of a Russian aristocrat forced to live with peasants
in a communal apartment after the Bolshevik revolution in 1917.
With her mascara running and lipstick smudged the Sergeenko woman peps up her
full-length dresses in silk, velvet or mesh with a fur bonnet or chic
hairnet. Sergeenko’s brand, launched in 2011, has become a favourite of
burlesque model and performer Dita Von Teese as well as actress Michelle
Rodriguez.
Many of her clients hail from her home country as well as other
ex-Soviet nations,
the Middle East and China. Dutch designer Ilja Visser was another new name
at the Fashion Week. Her collection of oversized, sculpted silhouettes with
asymmetric lines were inspired by the shapes of crystals and minerals as
well as their colours: azure blue, onyx black and pink quartz.
On Monday, the glitterati will be glued to the show by Schiaparelli as French
designer Bertrand Guyon makes his debut as style director for the legendary
label. Founded in 1930 by Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel’s biggest rival,
the fashion house made its couture comeback in January 2014 after lying
dormant for 60 years.
On Wednesday, John Galliano will put on his second couture show for Margiela
in Paris, after choosing to present his comeback collection in London in
January — seen as a snub to the French capital where he fell from grace.
Galliano lost his job as Dior’s star designer in 2011 when he was filmed in a
Paris bar heaping slurred insults on Jews, and disappeared from the runway for
several years.
This time it is Valentino who will be missing from the Paris couture
diary, having
chosen to show his collection on Thursday in Rome, where he will celebrate
the opening of his biggest store to date. (Anne-Laure Mondesert, AFP)
Images: AFP
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